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German newspapers had a field day, calling for a pizza boycott within Germany, or conversely telling Germans to phone for pizza delivery during the games so as to distract Italian fans (who, no doubt would be working in their pizzerias during the big game). German journalists even taunted Italians for being ‘pizza-eating mamma’s boys’. The smear campaign failed and Italy had the last laugh anyway, defeating Germany under team captain Fabio Cannavaro, who just happened to come from Naples. On the other hand, there remain quite a few Italians who are uneasy about what has happened to pizza throughout the world, especially in the United States, which serves up barbecued chicken pizza, and in countries like Japan, where pizzas with potatoes, mayonnaise and sausage can be bought.
And in New Haven, Connecticut, a city with a thriving Italian population, Frank Pepe began selling a ‘white’ pizza, which featured olive oil, oregano and anchovies, from a street cart before opening up Pepe’s in . Pepe’s and Sally’s Apizza, founded in , put New Haven on the American pizza map for such unusual offerings as a white pizza with clams. North-eastern cities like New York, Boston, New Haven and Trenton, New Jersey attracted southern Italian immigrants, who provided both the consumer and entrepreneurial base for pizzerias.
The Cinderella story of pizza’s rise to a national dish would have to wait until after World War , when more Italians across the country began eating and liking the food. In the early twentieth century and in the fascist era (–), pizza was ignored by much of Italy. Some Italian cookbooks written in the fascist era, for example, mention pizza but usually describing it as a regional dish or speciality. The pedestrian Cucina Pratica (‘Practical Cooking’) by ‘Zia Carolina’ () featured ‘focaccia o pizza alla napoletana’ and ‘focaccia o pizza acciugata’ under the heading of regional dishes.